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Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Best RV Resorts Across America: Solstice Motorcoach Resort and Country Club, Nevada

The Solstice Motorcoach Resort and Country Club between Sin City and southern Utah. 


 Whether you enjoy the hustle and bustle of Las Vegas or want to venture into Utah's picturesque landscapes, Solstice is the perfect luxury base camp for RV adventures. With a three-tier pond, walking trails, a fully-loaded clubhouse, and amenities you'd find at a local campground, Solstice has something for everyone whether you want to adventure or relax.

Learn more about this beautiful RV resort right here!

How to Clean Your RV


Ditch the Brand-Name Products
Most RV materials aren’t any different than other types of vehicle or living material. It’s easy to want to purchase the brand-name cleaner or solution that’s made exclusively for RVs, but the truth is many common and generic household cleaners work perfectly well to keep your RV sparkling including dish soap, window cleaner, even distilled white vinegar. Those fancy products at the RV superstore are appealing, but they're typically more expensive.

 
Invest in a Quality Handheld Vacuum
The small interior of an RV means several nooks and crannies that can quickly fill up with food debris, dust, and whatever else your adventures track in. A normal vacuum cleaner is too bulky for most RVs so invest in a high-quality handheld vacuum. Talk to other RVers and read reviews to find the best match for your RV. Always look for a vacuum with a hose attachment to reach the smallest parts of your ride.

Clean Both Sides of the Windows
You don’t want the window to your surroundings to be clouded with filth and grime, so clean both the inside and outside of your windows to see clearly. If you have a smaller RV, this can easily be accomplished by any window cleaner and a clean microfiber cloth. If you have several large windows, you should consider an extendable squeegee, or you can take the easy route and get yourself a membership at an oversized local carwash.

 
Don’t Forget Your Window and Door Seals
The window and door seals of your RV are typically made of rubber, which can attract dust and dirt. Regularly clean your window and door seals with mild dish detergent or a specialized cleaner. In this case, you might want to spend a little more on a cleaner that won’t just clean, but also moisturize seals to keep them lasting longer. This is especially important if you’re driving it in the arid American west or southwest which can dry out seals.

Best RV Resorts Across America: Mill Creek Ranch Resort, Texas


Mill Creek Ranch Resort caters to RVers and travelers looking to experience Texas hospitality at its finest.

Located an hour from Dallas, Mill Creek is all about living the #ResortLife (there hashtag, not ours!) With over 200 acres of land to explore, stocked fishing ponds, designer pools, and golf cart rentals; it's a miracle you ever leave the confines of this resort.

Premium RV sites include trees, grills, table and chairs, daily trash pickup, and complimentary RV concierge service for a variety of your needs.

Find even more information on this incredible resort right here.

Happy Holidays!

Best wishes for a happy holiday season and our sincere thanks for your loyalty and goodwill throughout the year!

2018 Forest River Rockwood Roo 21DK

Click here for more details. 

  • $33,854.00
  • $22,995.00
  • Madera
  • New
  • N4777
  • 2018
  • Forest River
  • Rockwood
  • Rockwood Roo 21DK
  • 4X4TRLW20JZ151604
  • 6
  • 1
  • 1
  • 1
  • 21' 0"
  • Available
  • 80"

2015 Coachmen LEPRECHAUN 23QB

  • $55,995.00
  • $49,995.00
  • Madera
  • Pre-Owned
  • 4863
  • 2015
  • Coachmen
  • Leprechaun
  • LEPRECHAUN 23QB
  • 1FDWE3FS3EDA78208
  • FORD
  • 6
  • 1
  • 1
  • onan
  • 23' 0"
  • Gas
  • Available


Reasons to Rent from RVs 4 Less

 

 

Darn good reasons to rent an RV from RVs 4 Less

No lines for:

  • The restroom
  • The airport
  • The restaurant
  • Check in/Check out
  • Baggage claims

You can:

  • Sleep when you're tired
  • Eat when you're hungry
  • Leave when you're ready
  • Choose your own view

Rent one of our units and we will deliver and setup for a nominal fee to some of the local favorite campsites in California.

  • Millerton
  • Bass Lake
  • Shaver Lake
  • Yosemite
  • Sequoia
  • Kings Canyon

Rent one of our units and we will deliver and setup for a nominal fee to some of the local favorite campsites in Arizona.

  • Emerald Cove Resort
  • Havasu Springs Resort
  • Northshore Resort
  • Big River
  • Lake Havasu
THIS #2018 #CATALINA 231RB TRAVEL TRAILER IS LOCATED IN #MADERA, #CALIFORNIA ON HWY 41 AND AVE 14. RETAIL $22,754 SALE PRICE $19,995 PLEASE CALL 5598227848 #RVS4LESS
 
THIS #2018 #CATALINA 223RBS TRAVEL TRAILER IS LOCATED IN #MADERA, #CALIFORNIA ON HWY 41 AND AVE 14. RETAIL $27,220 SALE PRICE $22,995 PLEASE CALL 559-822-7848 #RVS4LESS
 
THIS #2018 #COACHMEN #CATALINA 273DBS TRAVEL TRAILER IS LOCATED IN #MADERA, #CALIFORNIA ON HWY 41 AND AVE 14. RETAIL $29,192 SALE PRICE $24,995 PLEASE CALL 559-822-7848 #RVS4LESS
 
THIS #2018 #CATALINA 243RBS #TRAVEL #TRAILER IS LOCATED IN #MADERA, #CALIFORNIA ON HWY 41 AND AVE 14. RETAIL $28,909 SALE PRICE $23,995 PLEASE CALL 559-822-7848 RVS4LESS 
 
Reasons to let RVS-4-LESS sell your RV for you.
-We advertise across the valley on TV, Radio, Internet and in Newspapers.
-We handle the entire transaction of selling your RV.
-You will not have to deal with the public.
-We have a cleaning crew that will clean the RVs twice a week.
-Most sales occur within 30 days.
-Knowledgeable sales staff to answer questions 7 days a week.
-We offer Long term RV Financing.


Full service department!

We have a full service department that can install hitch accessories, awnings, plumbing, generators, and many more additional features for your RV. We are an authorized warranty and Insurance repair facility. Visit RVs-4-LESS today at our Madera, California dealer just outside of Fresno, California.

What You Need To Know About Your RV Batteries



To properly maintain and extend the life of your RV batteries you need to have a basic understanding of what a battery is and how it works. Batteries used in RVs are lead acid batteries, which means they have several cells connected in series. Each cell produces approximately 2.1 volts, so a 12-volt battery with six cells in series produces an out put voltage of 12.6 volts. Lead acid batteries are made of plates, lead and lead oxide submersed in electrolyte that is 36 percent sulfuric acid and 64 percent water. Lead acid batteries don’t make electricity they store electricity. The size of the lead plates and the amount of electrolyte determines the amount of charge a battery can store.

Now it’s very important that you use the right battery for the type of application. The battery used to start and run the engine is referred to as a chassis battery or a starting battery. Vehicle starters require large starting currents for short periods. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates to maximize the plate area exposed to the electrolyte. This is what provides the large amount of current in short bursts. Starting batteries are rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). CCA is the number of amps the battery can deliver at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications.

The battery or batteries used to supply 12-volts to the RV itself are commonly referred to as house batteries. House batteries need to be deep cycle batteries that are designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period. Starting batteries and marine batteries should not be used in this application. True deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates and are designed to be deeply discharged and recharged repeatedly. These batteries are rated in Amp Hours (AH) and more recently Reserve Capacity (RC).

The amp hour rating is basically, how many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Amps times hours. In other words a battery that can deliver 5 amps for 20 hours before it is discharged would have a 100 amp hour rating 5 Amps X 20 Hours = 100Amp Hours. This same battery can deliver 20 amps for 5 hours 20 Amps X 5 Hours = 100 Amp Hours. Reserve Capacity rating (RC) is the number of minutes at 80 degrees F that the battery can deliver 25 amps until it drops below 10.5 volts. To figure the amp hour rating you can multiply the RC rating by 60 percent. RC X 60 percent

The two major construction types of deep cycle batteries are flooded lead acid and Valve Regulated Lead Acid. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most common type and come in two styles. Serviceable with removable caps so you can inspect and perform maintenance or the maintenance free type. In VRLA batteries, the electrolyte is suspended in either a gel or a fiberglass-mat. Gel cell batteries use battery acid in the form of a gel. They are leak proof and because of this, they work well for marine applications. There are several disadvantages to gel cell batteries for RV applications. Most importantly, they must be charged at a slower rate and a lower voltage than flooded cell batteries. Any overcharging can cause permanent damage to the cells. Absorbed Glass Mat, or AGM Technology, uses a fibrous mat between the plates, which is 90 percent soaked in electrolyte. They are more expensive than a standard deep cycle battery but they have some advantages. They can be charged the same as a standard lead acid battery, they don’t loose any water, they can’t leak, they are virtually maintenance free and they are almost impossible to freeze.

The life expectancy of your RV batteries depends on you. How they’re used, how well they’re maintained, how they’re discharged, how they’re re-charged, and how they are stored, all contribute to a batteries life span. A battery cycle is one complete discharge from 100 percent down to about 50 percent and then re-charged back to 100 percent. One important factor to battery life is how deep the battery is cycled each time. If the battery is discharged to 50 percent everyday, it will last twice as long as it would if it is cycled to 80 percent. Keep this in mind when you consider a battery’s amp hour rating. The amp hour rating is really cut in half because you don’t want to completely discharge the battery before recharging it. The life expectancy of a battery depends on how soon a discharged battery is recharged. The sooner it is recharged the better.

What does all of this mean to you? That depends on how you use your RV. If most of your camping is done where you are plugged into an electrical source then your main concern is just to properly maintain your deep cycle batteries. But if you really like to get away from it all and you do some serious dry camping you’ll want the highest amp hour capacities you can fit on your RV.

Deep cycle batteries come in all different sizes. Some are designated by Group size, like group 24, 27 and 31. Basically, the larger the battery the more amp hours you get. Depending on your needs and the amount of space you have available, there are several options when it comes to batteries.

You can use one 12-volt 24 group deep cycle battery that provides 70 to 85 AH.

You can use two 12-volt 24 group batteries wired in parallel that provides 140 to 170 AH. Parallel wiring increases amp hours but not voltage.

If you have the room, you can do what a lot of RVers do and switch from the standard 12-volt batteries to two of the larger 6-volt golf cart batteries. These pairs of 6-volt batteries need to be wired in series to produce the required 12-volts and they will provide 180 to 220 AH. Series wiring increases voltage but not amp hours.

If this still doesn’t satisfy your requirements you can build larger battery banks using four 6-volt batteries wired in series / parallel that will give you 12-volts and double your AH capacity.

The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time, this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. The good news is both of these problems are avoidable.

Join us next month when I discuss how to test and maintain your deep cycle RV batteries. I also provide this battery information for segments I host on the new television program called RVTV. RVTV airs weekly on the Outdoor channel.

Happy Camping!

RV Roof Care & Maintenance



One of the most neglected areas on your RV is the roof, out of site out of mind. The problem is if you don’t keep the roof clean and inspect the roof seams on a regular basis you could end up with, expensive to repair, water damage. Most RVs built today use a rubber roofing material. If you want to get a long life out of your RV roof here are some things you can do.

Safety first! Be extremely careful whenever you are working on your RV roof. You can be seriously injured from a fall. You have to get on the roof of your RV to properly clean and inspect it for any damage or potential water leaks. The first step is the ladder you use to get up on the roof. If your RV does not have a ladder on the back to access the roof it is probably not designed to be walked on. In this situation, it may be necessary to use a couple pieces of plywood or particleboard to help distribute your weight. Many RV manufacturers have an option called roof rack and ladder ready. If the RV dealer orders this option the roof is built with a heavier roof decking. Even so, you need to walk lightly when you’re on the roof and be careful.

Rubber roofing on an RV is a great product, but like everything else without routine preventive maintenance it will not last as long as it could. First of all there are different types of rubber roofs. Different manufacturers provide different instructions with their product. What we want to concentrate on today is what applies to all rubber roofs used on RVs.

Caution: There are other types of RV roofing material used like fiberglass, aluminum and vinyl. READ your roof manufacturers instructions for proper cleaning and sealing techniques to prevent damage to your roof and possibly void your warranty.

Rubber roofs should be cleaned three to four times a year and depending on where you park or store your RV it may need to be cleaned more often. Regardless of the type of rubber roof you have, NEVER use any cleaners or conditioners that contain petroleum solvents, harsh abrasives, or citrus ingredients. These types of cleaners can cause permanent damage to any rubber or vinyl surface. Most manufacturers of rubber roofs recommend you use a medium bristle brush and a non-abrasive cleaner. For light cleaning you can use warm water and a mild detergent like Dawn dish washing liquid. To clean, condition and protect the roof I use B.E.S.T Rubber Roof cleaner and protectant. Hard to clean areas like stubborn stains caused by leaves, sap, mold or mildew may require a second treatment. Use caution to prevent the cleaners from getting on the sides of the RV. ALWAYS rinse the sides, front and back of your RV before rinsing the roof to prevent streaking or damage to the finish on your RV.

Cleaning the roof is only part of maintaining it. Every time you clean the roof you need to inspect the sealants around all of the openings and the seams on the roof. Water will take the path of least resistance and if there is the smallest opening it will find it. You need to thoroughly inspect the roof sealants for potential leaks and reseal any areas of the roof seams and around openings where you suspect a leak. Caution: Check with your RV dealer for sealants that are compatible with your roofing material.

Cleaning, inspecting and sealing your RV roof can add years to the life of the roof and help prevent costly repairs caused by water damage.

Happy Camping!

Make Your Water Taste Like... Water



Take care of your RV water system and in return, it will provide you with years of dependable service.

The potable water system in your house is pretty much maintenance free. The potable water system in your RV, on the other hand, requires some maintenance to keep it trouble free. Something I’ve run into quite often is the complaint that there is a stale odor coming from the RV water system.

When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while, you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater.

Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock, is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. NEVER drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. There’s one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all the drains. Now, do not make the mistake that this is how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system.

If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system. Start by draining all of the old water out, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for three to four hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking.

Happy Camping!

Get the Most From Your Camp Stove


If you love home cooked meals, hot and fresh, prepared with care. It gives you more energy and keeps me healthy. Don’t wait until you’re on the trail.

Test my stove before the camping trip. I make sure it works at home where you're only a phone call away from the store or manufacturer.

If it’s a new camp stove, Boil water with it. This way you get used to its functions and find out what its quirks are.
  • Is it difficult to prime?
  • Is it stable?
  • Does it need a windscreen?
This will give me an idea of what to expect when you're camping. It also burns off the protective oils and coatings.

If it’s an old camp stove, I’ll know if it needs repair. There is nothing worse than getting to the campsite and having to come back because your stove is broken.

Use the ideal fuel.
If my camp stove uses multiple fuels, and the manufacturer recommends one type over another, I always use the preferred fuel. Using alternative fuels can clog the burner or shorten the life of the camp stove. Only use alternative fuels if the recommended fuel isn’t available.

The wrong fuel can ruin your stove. If fuel has a funny odor, debris, or sludge at the bottom of it, Assume it has been contaminated, dispose of it properly, and get fresh fuel.

Water and debris can clog a fuel line. Use a fuel funnel outfitted with a small screen to pre-filter fuel, and check inside for water and debris before filling my fuel containers.

If you use disposable fuel canisters please try to recycle them, if not, dispose of them per the instructions on the can. Remember: Leave No Trace! Pack it in. Pack it out.

Tip: recheck your fuel containers before you leave. Murphy’s Law dictates that full fuel containers become mysteriously empty when you’re ready to use them.

Get spare parts and a maintenance kit. Learn to use them.

Again, home is the best place to try things out. Practice using the repair kit in this controlled environment. Get used to changing those tiny o-rings in proper lighting, not when you are shivering and hungry in the wilderness.

NEVER OPERATE A BROKEN STOVE. IT COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY.
Clean my stove after each camping trip. A properly cared for stove can literally give decades of service.

Tip: Read the directions that come with your stove and maintenance kit. They have a lot more details about your particular stove than I can cover here.

Store your camp stove properly.
While camping, store your camp stove and fuel away from food (in a side pocket of my pack). Many camp stoves come with padded sacks or special stove cases for this purpose.

After camping, store my camp stove separately from the fuel, especially liquid fuels. When You're done with my trip remove all the fuel canisters from my gear. Leaking fuel canisters can ruin a pack or other nylon materials.

Having a camp stove is vital to your culinary camping enjoyment. Keep your stove working and keep yourself in good health. You’ll be glad you did.

Check life-support systems



Recreational vehicles usually contain one or more life-supporting systems, such as water, gas and waste disposal. Check these regularly, too. Water systems need only to be drained periodically and flushed with fresh water. You can remove stale taste in the system by adding a mild baking soda solution to the flush. All you need do for the disposal system is to drain as required; for any complications, call a plumber. Propane gas systems for heat and cooking are usually maintenance free; just keep burner heads clean. All three of these systems do require occasional tightening of fittings. Check propane gas lines for leaks at connections by brushing on a mild soap solution and noting the location of bubbles. Never check with a lighted match!

Most motor homes have a 12-volt auxiliary lighting system that draws power from a second battery. Give it the attention you give your engine electrical system battery and you shouldn't have any trouble. If your unit also has a 11 a-volt alternating current system for appliances, it will draw power from a separate generator that runs on gasoline from the main fuel system. Service this small engine regularly, too.

Follow routine maintenance



For the engine compartment, periodically check stud nuts around the carburetor and on the manifold for tightness. Make sure the carburetor is clean and the linkage pivot points are lubricated and free moving. Check all bolts and screws around the fuel pump and its lines for tightness. Drive belts on the fan and alternator, air conditioning and power steering must have the proper tension and not be damaged. Keep the air cleaner and fuel filter clean. Oil level and condition is critical on RV engines, so change it and the oil filter regularly. Watch for leaks around filter, oil pan and rocker arm covers.

The cooling system ranks with the oil in importance. To keep rust and scale from building up, thoroughly flush and drain the system at least every two years, refilling it with a good glycol-base coolant with a rust inhibitor. The radiator, radiator hoses and water pump must be checked for leaks and loose connections. Make sure hoses are firm; soft or cracked ones may blow under pressure.

A clean battery with tight connections, good electrolyte level and no corrosion will be dependable. Dust and caked-on dirt can harm the alternator, generator or even the distributor, so they must be thoroughly cleaned. All engine wiring must be in a position where jouncing from rough terrain or engine movement won't cause chafing. Also, engine heat can melt insulation on electrical wiring, so make sure wiring is out of the way.

The fluid level in automatic transmissions is critical. Check it regularly. Automatic transmission fluid is usually red; when it looks brownish, it needs changing because it's either dirty or has been burned through overheating. Inspect shift linkage for security, too.

Off-road driving is rough on chassis parts; shock absorbers, even heavy-duty ones, won't last as long. Check their condition more frequently than you would on a car. Proper wheel alignment is necessary for good handling but is hard to maintain if you drive on rough roads. Check for bent tie rods and links. Front and rear wheel bearings should be inspected if the vehicle is used off road or the wheels are frequently submerged in water. Inspect for rust and corrosion on brake linings, too.

Tires and wheels are your only contact with the road when you're under way, so they demand attention for safety as well as handling. Check rims for dents, lug nuts for tightness and tires for uneven tread wear, abrasions and proper inflation pressures. All wiring for external lights should get a complete checkup for tightness of connections, breaks and other potential malfunctions.

When you check over the engine compartment and chassis of your recreational vehicle, remember the two major troublemakers: dirt and vibration. Dust collected on back roads combines with moisture and packs the smallest crevice. Jolts from bumps and potholes are transmitted throughout the chassis and engine, gradually loosening everything that can turn. Routine maintenance should include cleaning and tightening.

Traveling With Pets


Traveling with pets can be one of the best experiences your family can share. But before you do it, give it some thought.

If your pet doesn't like to ride in the car, then chances are it won't be keen on the RV either. Perhaps keeping your pet inside the RV is the best idea to lessen the stress travelling can incur. Putting your pet in a carrier may make travelling less stressful for the pet and you.

Commit to taking care of your pet during the trip. If your dog needs to walk often or take special medications, make sure you can see to his needs. Remember to always clean up your pet's waste (a requirement at most campgrounds).

Even if you adore your pet and want to travel with it, some pets just don't adapt to the stresses of traveling. If your pet is shy around other people and animals, you may decide to leave it home. If it would be happier staying behind at home with a caretaker or boarded at a kennel, do what's in your pet's best interests.